The Age of Aquaculture

Stroll by a supermarket fresh fish counter and you’ll see varying shades of pink and gray flesh—salmon, trout, catfish, raw shrimp—piled on mounds of crushed ice. But look closer through the smudged display case and you’ll find a United Nations assembly of marine ambassadors, name tags proclaiming: “Arrowtooth Flounder, U.S.A., wild” or “Fresh farmed salmon steak, color added, Canada, farm-raised” or “Raw shrimp, Thailand, farm-raised.”

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